The stairway to love: Chongqing's real-life fairy tale
The 6,208-step Love Ladder in Chongqing has been developed into a tourism attraction.
While influencers like IShowSpeed flock to China's trendy spots, there is a hidden gem in southwestern Chongqing City that tells a story more profound than any viral photo op: the "Love Ladder."
Built step by step over 50 years by Liu Guojiang for his wife Xu Chaoqing, the 6,208-step staircase began as a way to keep her safe. It now stands as a public memorial to a love that challenged tradition and endured isolation.
It draws not only local visitors but global admirers like Brazilian writer Paola Vechetti, who calls it "the ultimate romance."
Liu first met Xu in 1942, when he was 6 and she was a bride. According to local custom, a bride's touch could heal a child's ailments.
Liu, missing a front tooth, peeked into Xu's wedding sedan chair. She reached out and touched his lips. That moment, Liu later said, stayed with him forever.
By 1952, Xu was a 26-year-old widow with four children. Liu, 16, began helping her with chores. Their friendship deepened. One day, when she and her children fell into a river, Liu saved them. His feelings grew, despite his neighbors' views.
Their age difference and Xu's widowhood brought criticism. In 1956, they left the village together, opting for exile rather than shame. They settled on an untraversed mountain.
The couple built a life on the mountain. They farmed, raised seven children, and lived without electricity or roads.
The former home of the couple has been preserved and is open to visitors.
One day, Xu slipped while walking on a steep path. Liu vowed she would never risk falling again. He began carving steps into the rock using only hand tools.
He continued for five decades. He wore out 20 tools. By 2001, he had created a staircase stretching more than 6,000 steps.
That same year, hikers discovered the couple. Their story spread quickly, gaining national attention. The couple was named one of the "Top 10 Touching Figures of Chongqing" and their love story was recognized as one of China's "Top 10 Classic Love Stories."
"I promised her a safe road. Every step is a part of that promise," Liu told Chongqing Evening News in 2006.
Liu died in 2007 after a fall. Xu followed in 2012. Both are buried near the staircase.
Their home still stands. Tools used to carve the ladder remain in place. The Chongqing municipal government later developed the site into a tourist attraction.
Today, the area includes bronze statues of the couple, a museum, and safety railings. Admission is free.
The statue of the couple
Brazilian novelist Paola Vechetti visited the site in 2024. She had heard the couple's story through a documentary and felt drawn to see it for herself.
"This is the most extreme romance I've encountered," she said. "It doesn't belong to China alone. It belongs to all of us."
Vechetti is now writing a novel inspired by the couple's life. During her visit, she spoke with their son, Liu Mingsheng.
"Each step on the ladder feels like a sentence in a love letter," she observed.
The Brazilian also wrote a poem during her visit: "Chongqing, beloved flower. Love sprouts in your rolling hills."
The story of Liu and Xu has inspired a wave of artistic creations. They include poems, songs, sand paintings, as well as screen adaptations that honor their enduring love.
In 2011, their story was adapted into a Chinese film "The Love Ladder," and in 2012, a Hong Kong TV drama titled "Heaven's Ladder" featured their tale. Songs like "A Lifetime, One Heart" and "The Ladder" capture the emotions in melodies now played at the site.
A line from the song "The Ladder" by Hong Kong pop band C AllStar captures the spirit:
"If life is no more than this mountain,
Then your smile makes the climb worth every step."
Exhibitions tell the love story of the couple.
If you go:
Location: Changle Village, Zhongshan Ancient Town, Simian Mountain Scenic Area, Jiangjin District of Chongqing
How to Get There: Take a 2-hour bus from central Chongqing to Jiangjin. From there, take a taxi to Zhongshan, then walk 30 minutes to the trailhead.
Admission: Free
What to See:
- The 6,208-step stone ladder
- Liu and Xu's preserved home and farming tools
- The Love Ladder Museum
- Bronze statues at the entrance
Exhibitions tell the love story of the couple.
